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Posts from the ‘Japan’ Category

Nishi-Itoya mountain lodge

The simple Nishi-Itoya mountain lodge built in the 1920ies turned out to be the perfect fit for us. It is run by 2 elder gentlemen who are neither distant nor introvert, make everything they can so that their guests feel home. First important step was taking off the shoes and slip in a pair of leather slippers that were waiting for us not to be mistaken with the separate pair (in pink!!) to be used in the toilet…. unfortunately Yvo managed to wear them to come down to the lobby…later in the evening! It seems that nobody realised it or maybe just we didn’t ha ha

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(sorry pics are a bit dark… but think i need to share them with you anyway.. ha ha)

After having taken a long bath in the Onsen, we got dressed in our kimonos and headed down for our first very Japanese dinner consisting of a large variety of different dishes both cold and hot, sashimi as well as an entire fish…(we didn’t eat the head though), noodle soup, tempura and god knows what all the other things were – we had sometimes no idea what was placed in front of us. However it was absolutely delicious. The Japanese Kaiseki kitchen is an amazing experience.

Breakfast was a bit a tough start as it was also Japanese – however seeing what the western breakfast looked like, we were happy to continue with Japanese.… better to eat what they know how to cook. Also whether you eat grilled or smoked salmon – hey what’s the difference! Also some nice steamed rice tastes for sure better than average bread.

A challenge though bared the bento box which was intended for our lunch during the hike. The rice balls were fine but the cold tempura and the cold fried fish and shrimps plus some other items we couldn’t identify didn’t tempt us really. So, we opted for the rice balls with some apples, mandarines and cookies which we also brought with us. Always good to have a plan b).

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Nishi-Itoya lodge a truly travelicious experience in the Japanese Zermatt!

Kamiköchi the Japanese Alps or Switzerland in Japan

A small village in the mountains which can only be reached by public transport bearing stunning mountain views… some of you will think now: this sounds like Zermatt. Well yes if you reduce it to these 3 attributes that’s correct. However there are no electric taxi trying to hit you on the road, no shops except 3 tiny tourist shops which cover the basic, no restaurants, nothing… but they have bears and one was seen the day we arrived. Thus as recommended, I was buying a bear bell. Thus all along the hiking path it sounded like hordes of sheep are going up the mountain. Clearly the bears must be stuffing their ears with ‘Tannzapfen’ as this noise is unBEARable. But it seems it worked no bear spotted during the 2 days we hiked there.

on top of this blingblingblingblingbling it was normal to greet each and every other hiker thus ‘Konichiwa’ here ‘Konichiwa’ there…. ‘chwaaaa’ ‘chwaaaa’ as the cool dudes would say. Now Japanese are very respectful and polite in principle, so if there is one a bit slower in walking up hill… they would immediately stop and ask you to pass..  followed by ‘arigato gosaimas’ ‘mas’ So basically all day it was a mix of ‘konichiwa’ blingblingbling ‘arigato gosaimas’ … mas, chwaaaa, arigatooo… i think even they got sometimes tired of it ha ha. However over all a very nice way to hike as nobody would rush passed you, push, squeeze.. or whatever.. everybody was very relaxed and friendly.

On our first day we hiked up the Yake-dake 2500m. This was quite an easy hike despite me being scared of the bears… which were gone long time ago because of all the ‘sheep’ however in a way a special hike as it was an active vulcano. At this stage nobody knew that Ontake would start spitting ashes on the same day. As we climbed higher you started to smell the Sulphur and soon we saw yellowish patches where hot air was escaping from the mountain (somebody put eggs to cook on such a spot). On the top we enjoyed the beautiful view around the valley, the crater lake and all the other tourists.

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On our second day we hiked/climbed up the Maehotakadake 3090m. This hike was a tough one – it took us including breaks nearly 11hrs.. hence we set off very early in the morning.

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It would be mainly marked white/blue in Switzerland and there were many passages where you literally had to climb and not to hike, hence this needed much more time. Dangerous passages where equipped with fix ropes, ladders or chains – all very well done. The most surprising thing was that also very old people (75+) were going up to the top – we  were truly amazed about the way they climbed… very patiently but persistent. Also they were not really in hiking gear but just in their normal clothes… compared to the young Japanese who’s equipment was state of the art. On the top we enjoyed a breathtaking 360 panorama view including the ‘Japanese Matterhorn’ and the smoking Ontake.

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On the way down i was less lucky. After about 400m descent i slipped out and made a kind of salto flip (shame Yvo had the go pro not ready) it looked apparently spectacular. Gladly i managed to kind of get grip on some rock so that i didn’t slip further down hill, by miracle not hit my head nor the arms, only got a hit on the knee and some bruises on my legs. hmmmmm shame that there were still 1200m do hike down…

once we reached the village we celebrated the long hike with a cold beer on the riverside 🙂 Kamiköchi truly a wonderful hideaway for hiking and relaxing.

ab in die Berge!!!!

Juhuuuuu mit dem Super Azusa raus aus Tokio und mit dem Highland Shuttle ab in die Berge.

 

Tsukiji Fisch Markt

Der Tsukiji Fisch Markt ist mit einem Tagesumsatz von ca. 2400 Tonnen der weltgrösste Fisch- und Meeresgetiermarkt. Alles was der Mensch schafft aus dem Meer zu fischen, wird hier verkauft… obwohl der ganz grosse Star des Marktes ist der ‘Maguro’ (bluefin Thunfisch). Dieser wird jeweils morgens um 05:00h in einer Auktion verscherbelt.

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Weil wir nicht so early birds sind, entschieden wir uns die Auktion zu verschlafen und dafür ab 09:00h durch die Grosshandel Markthalle zu schlendern. Unglaublich eindrücklich wieviel verschiedene Sorten Fisch, Crevetten, Krebse, Muscheln und weiss ich was für Meeresgetier hier alles zum Verkauf angeboten wird.

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Alles fein säuberlich in Styroporboxen eingepackt, auf Eis, neben Trockeneis, lebend in Wassertanks oder schon frisch filetiert. Daneben ganze Thunfische, die in ‘Eissärge’ eingepackt in Holzkisten verpackt werden um wohl noch am selben Tag in New York oder Sydney in einem Restaurant als Sushi oder Tunasteak auf dem Teller landen werden.

Da es ja nicht per se eine Sehenswürdigkeit sondern ein Grossmarkt ist, muss man sich als Tourist in Acht nehmen, denn durch die kleinen Gänge transportieren Arbeiter mit Gabelstaplern und Velos Türme diese Styroboxen.

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Abgesehen dieser grossen Markthalle, hat es daneben noch unzählige kleine Geschäfte wo man alles andere zum Fisch essen, fangen oder kochen sonst noch brauchen kann. Getrocknete Fische aller Art, Seetang, Gemüse, Gummistiefel, Ölzeug, so wie Messer. Letzteren konnte ich nicht widerstehen und so kauften wir ein Karbonstahl Messer – Japanese Style. Etwas mehr, was Yvo mit nach Hause nehmen darf….

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Nachdem wir ‘fertig’ waren mit dem Markt anschauen – wurde es Zeit von den unzähligen kleinen Restaurants eines auszuwählen um weltfrischeste Sushi zu essen. Schwierige Aufgabe, denn es sah überall gut aus… also suchten wir eines mit dem geringsten Schwierigkeitsgrad = entweder Bilder oder wer hätte es gedacht!  wir fanden eines wo der Bar entlang ein Band lief und man sich so ganz einfach einen Überblick machen konnte, was es gibt und ohne grosses Fragen einfach nehmen konnte wonach man Lust hatte. Tja es gab einiges und bis auf ganz wenige Varianten assen wir uns ‘fischfröhlich’ durch die Palette mehr oder weniger wissend was wir gerade assen.

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Tsukiji Fish Market – an absolute must !

Girls in Heels in Shinjuku or (Big in Japan III)

Yes, Japanese girls are usually not that tall… but they do everything possible to appear bigger by wearing sky high heels and short skirts which doesn’t make it easier for them to keep walking elegantly…

 

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Shopping trousers in Tokyo or (Big in Japan II)

My wardrobe needed some upgrading with regards to trousers – trekking pants plus 1 pair of jeans was simply inappropriate. So off we went to uniqlo the famous Japanese budget clothes store. However after checking the sizes available….. i started to feel very big. They regularly don’t have jeans bigger than 25”…. which is i believe a EU 34. After making my way through all the floors I found some chinos from the uniqlo special edition designed by French designer Inès de la Fréssange and luckily the biggest one of them was size 67cm which was just a perfect fit! So if you need trousers in Japan, make sure you don’t eat too much tempura beforehand… unless you do fit comfortably in a EU 36!

 

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New York Bar or ‘Big in Japan I’

Going big in Japan in the famous New York Bar at the Park Hyatt. The bar which probably shares the most stunning view with their guests  making their way up to this stylish ‘refuge’ on 52nd floor. This place got famous around the globe in the movie Lost in Translation as Scarlett Johansson and Bill Murray would get caught in timeless conversations there.

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Tokyo

We arrived in Tokyo quite late at night and customs decided to pick us for checking the luggage… cannot remember when this happened ever before. Luckily i threw away my fruits after immigration… as he rummaged through mine and Yvo’s suitcases the poor guys got more and more irritated. Nothing wrong in the bags but it seems they never saw cycling shoes before… ‘what is this??’  aaah Shimano hihihi  He also pointed at various pictures of drugs asking if i carried any of those with me. Sorry my friend all negative and so they let us pass in the end.

Then we just managed to hop on the train into the city, successfully changed in Nippori and arrived at Shinjuku where the first stress began. The taxi driver had no clue where our hotel was even though it was just a 10 min walk from the station. So I called the hotel that they could explain him where it is. Glad we went for the taxi option as we were only to find out the following days how complex Shinjuku train station is to navigate…

After checking in we didn’t feel like unpacking and went directly up to the roof top terrace for a drink and a first glimpse of the city by night.